The Glass Boat

Apart from when we are on holiday, Moonface and I rarely eat out in the evenings. It's not that we don't enjoy it, nor that we are too mean; we just don't. Perhaps it's the time that it takes, or the knowledge that we have had too many ordinary meals, or that we both enjoy cooking and eating at home together, especially when Tommo & Rio are with us.

So our meal for all four of us on the Glass Boat this week was somewhat special, as well as being superb. Moonface has wanted to eat there for some time, as it has both a great reputation and a romantic situation by the Bristol Bridge. We wanted to go out en famille to celebrate Rio's 21st before she returned to University, and we took advantage of an offer to do so. We walked down there, of course, a fast thirty-minute stride through the returning commuters and early evening.

The resto is, as its name suggests, an old barge with the upper decks covered with a glass and timber superstructure to form an elegant and light space with room enough for a score of well-separated tables. The loos, kitchen and another dining room are below decks. We arrived at our usual dinner time, about 6:30, when there was only one other table occupied, but by time we left there were only about half empty; not bad for a Thursday in January .

We ate superbly. I knew that I couldn't cook as well, nor present it as delicately as the chefs had put in upon our plates. The wine was expensive (for us) but good. In particular, I appreciated the half-bottle of Macon Villages which Rio and I shared because it was available in a half-bottle size so we didn't drink too much, and it was just right for our starters, Furthermore, it's unusual to have good French wine in Britain, or at least on our table. The Aussie Foundstone Shiraz was as spicy and plummy as we expected, so it went well with our rich main courses of duck (the other three) and venison pudding (myself).

Since this isn't a review, I won't go on. The calves' liver starter which Tommo ate has inspired me to try cooking with liver again, the scallops I had reminded me to eat more seafood, and the mains were filling as well as tasty. Rio and I made a mistake over puds, however. We assumed that a shared taster dish would be small. It wasn't; instead it was three full-size puddings squeezed onto a plate together with some ice cream. We had problems squeezing it all inside ourselves, together with the taster glasses of riesling or Pedro Ximinez sherry served with them. Thank goodness for the walk home.

My only complaint was the rather slow service. I wasn't expecting to take over two hours for three courses, but it was very relaxing. And as I said, superb food and atmosphere.

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